DSC04559_sm.jpg (16933 bytes)Alien Eye LED Mountain Bike Light
Hybrid Shell Design

 

 

 

Introduction:    On this page I will show you how to make your Alien Eye using a two-part 5 minute curing epoxy putty skeleton and then finish your Alien Eye with Fimo polymer clay.     The advantage of this design is that you do not need to mix glass fibers in your Fimo for reinforcement since the underlying two-part epoxy skeleton provides the main strength for the lamp.  You will however have to buy both Fimo and the two part putty epoxy for this design.  Any left over two-part epoxy putty can be used later for other repair operations.    The two-part epoxy putty hardens in about 5 minutes after it has been thoroughly mixed, so do not mix too much at one time or you will not have time to apply it properly.   When the color of the epoxy putty is uniform, then it is thoroughly mixed. 

Read the instructions all the way through before starting so that there are no surprises!

You can make a host of colors using this Fimo mixing chart.  Click on chart for enlargement.  .pdf format

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right_left.jpg (24866 bytes)You can choose what side the power connector is on before you fix the base.   If you have a bike computer on the left side of your handle bar then the light will probably be mounted on the right side.   You will probably want the power connector on the left side of the lamp as viewed from the back end of the lamp.   

If the bike computer is on the right side of the handle bar then it would be best to have the power connector on the right hand side. 

 

To start the operations here you should already have the electrical components soldered and fixed to the lamp.  See this instruction page for making the electrical connections.

 

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Optional:   To keep Fimo smudges and epoxy putty finger prints off the aluminum housing, mask the non-working
surfaces with tape or masking tape.

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Do not forget to remove the tape
before baking in the oven!

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Cut off a 8 - 10 mm section of two-part epoxy putty.


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Divide the  two-part epoxy putty in half and then into smaller sections and mix more only as you need it.  
Once the two-part epoxy is thoroughly mixed you will have
about 5 minutes to apply it before it hardens.  To mix the putty, just kneed it in your fingers.

 

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Place a small piece of putty on each  side of the lamp.

 

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Place a small piece of putty on each  side of the lamp.

 

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Align the positions of the connector and the switch so that their
shoulders have about the same height. 
The switch should rest on the end of the connector (see picture).

 

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Center the connector and the switch in the
middle of the lamp connector.
Let the two-part epoxy air cure before proceeding.

 

Base mounting method 2. using three nuts and two washers instead of M4x12 stand off. 
This method is more difficult due to aligning the base to the lamp and keeping it aligned while the epoxy putty cures.
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Cateye space plate (533-8730) ready for assembly.
3- M4 nuts, two washers and baking paper
trapped under the bottom nut.

 

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Place putty in and around the lock down
screw as shown in the picture.  Make sure that the putty is no
closer than 5 mm to the edges of the Cateye base.

 

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Decide what side you want the power connector on.
Orient the lamp and mark the cooling rib in line
with the two lamp pins.


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Work the putty in the middle three cooling ribs in line
with the pins of the connector. 
Press the base on with screw almost in line with the connector
base as shown in the picture. 
Note in the picture where the putty stops in the cooling ribs
relative to the end of the black plastic base.

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Align the base perpendicular with the lamp.

 

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Align the base to be in line with the lamp.
Let the two part epoxy putty cure. 

 

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Set the lamp in the oven on the aluminum housing,
not on the plastic base. Stress relieve the epoxy
and let it out gas in the  oven at 100ºC for 10 minutes.  

 

 

 

Making the FIMO shell.  If you want to keep black smudges from the Fimo off the aluminum housing,
mask the non-working surfaces first with  tape or masking tape before processing.  
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Open the Fimo

 

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Cut off three strips from the eight strips.  (21 gram)

 

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Kneed the Fimo by hand to evenly distribute the Fimo plasticizers,
or use a pasta machine to kneed it.

 

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Fill the connector area with Fimo, but do not go
outside the diameter of the while plastic connector housing. 

 

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Fill in material between the connector and the switch. 


 

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Three cooling ribs were partially filled with the two part epoxy. 
Fill two ribs to each side of the epoxy with Fimo. 
Fill out the area in front of the black plastic base.

 

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Start to fill material in on the side and the base,
flush with the black plastic base.

 

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Form the Fimo around the base and start to smooth it out.

 

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Cut out a 20mm x 70 mm rectangular piece of Fimo. 
(option:  just fill in material if you cannot make a rectangle) 

 

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Wrap the strip of Fimo from under the switch to under
the connector.   The strip of Fimo should run parallel to
white plastic connector base on the lamp 

 

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Kneed the Fimo to just cover up the white plastic
connector base of the lamp.   This is a potential entry
point for water and should be sealed up with Fimo.  

 

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Smooth out the Fimo with light finger pressure.  
Always support lamp on non-Fimo surfaces,
such as the aluminum housing, the base, the switch,
or the connector.

 

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Smooth the material at the front of the lamp. 





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Check for finger prints and non-symmetrical
surfaces between the left and right side.   
Since the Fimo does not harden on its own, you have
lots of time to get the form like you want it. 

Remove any masking tape you might have used to keep Fimo
smudges off the aluminum housing.

 

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Bake the lamp out for 40 minutes at 100-110º C.
Place the lamp in the oven on the aluminum
housing as shown.   Make sure the shelf is in the
middle of the oven and that the fan is on. 
Let your little Alien slow cool in the oven
with the door closed when the baking time is over. 

The Fimo will crack if the cooling is too fast! 

 

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To protect the trim ring, from easily being broken
during handling, fill the edge with silicon rubber
before assembly as shown in the picture.

This will help keep the ring from being snagged
and torn away from the housing.




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Assemble the lens.   Be careful of finger prints. 
Sealing Option: Lay a small bead of silicon rubber
on the edge of the aluminum housing before
assemblying the lens


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Assemble the outer trim, making sure it
sits flat before screwing it down.


 

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Assemble and lightly tighten the three screws.

You are done!

 

The Fimo surface can be finished with wet
sanding and buffing.