Alien Eye LED Mountain Bike Light
Hybrid Shell Design
Introduction: On this page I will show you how to make your Alien Eye using a two-part 5 minute curing epoxy putty skeleton and then finish your Alien Eye with Fimo polymer clay. The advantage of this design is that you do not need to mix glass fibers in your Fimo for reinforcement since the underlying two-part epoxy skeleton provides the main strength for the lamp. You will however have to buy both Fimo and the two part putty epoxy for this design. Any left over two-part epoxy putty can be used later for other repair operations. The two-part epoxy putty hardens in about 5 minutes after it has been thoroughly mixed, so do not mix too much at one time or you will not have time to apply it properly. When the color of the epoxy putty is uniform, then it is thoroughly mixed. Read the instructions all the way through before starting so that there are no surprises! You can make a host of colors using this Fimo mixing chart. Click on chart for enlargement. .pdf format
If the bike computer is on the right side of the handle bar then it would be best to have the power connector on the right hand side.
To start the operations here you should already have the electrical components soldered and fixed to the lamp. See this instruction page for making the electrical connections.
|
|
![]() Optional:
To keep Fimo smudges and epoxy putty finger prints off the aluminum housing, mask
the non-working |
![]() Do
not forget to remove the tape |
Cut off a 8 - 10 mm
section of two-part epoxy putty. |
Divide the two-part epoxy putty in half and then into smaller
sections and mix more only as you need it.
|
Place a small piece of putty on each side of the lamp.
|
Place a small piece of putty on each side of the lamp.
|
Align the positions of the
connector and the switch so that their
|
Center the connector and the switch
in the
|
| Base mounting method 2. using three nuts
and two washers instead of M4x12 stand off. This method is more difficult due to aligning the base to the lamp and keeping it aligned while the epoxy putty cures. |
|
Cateye space plate (533-8730) ready
for assembly.
|
Place putty in and around the lock
down
|
![]() Decide what side you want the power
connector on. |
Work the putty in the middle three
cooling ribs in line |
Align the base perpendicular with
the lamp.
|
Align the base to be in line with
the lamp.
|
Set the lamp in the oven on the aluminum housing, not on the plastic base. Stress relieve the epoxy and let it out gas in the oven at 100ºC for 10 minutes.
|
|
| Making the FIMO shell. If you want
to keep black smudges from the Fimo off the aluminum housing, mask the non-working surfaces first with tape or masking tape before processing. |
|
Open the Fimo
|
Cut off three strips from the eight strips. (21 gram)
|
Kneed the Fimo by hand to evenly distribute the Fimo plasticizers, or use a pasta machine to kneed it.
|
Fill the connector area with Fimo,
but do not go
|
Fill in material between the
connector and the switch.
|
Three cooling ribs were partially
filled with the two part epoxy.
|
Start to fill material in on the
side and the base,
|
Form the Fimo around the base and
start to smooth it out.
|
Cut out a 20mm x 70 mm rectangular
piece of Fimo.
|
Wrap the strip of Fimo from under
the switch to under
|
Kneed the Fimo to just cover up the
white plastic
|
Smooth out the Fimo with light
finger pressure.
|
Smooth the material at the front of
the lamp.
|
Check for finger prints and
non-symmetrical Remove any masking tape you might have used to keep Fimo
|
Bake the lamp out for 40 minutes at
100-110º C. The Fimo will crack if the cooling is too fast!
|
To protect the trim ring, from
easily being broken This will help keep the ring from being snagged |
![]() Assemble the lens. Be
careful of finger prints.
|
![]() Assemble the
outer trim, making sure it
|
![]() Assemble and lightly tighten the three screws. You are done!
|
The Fimo surface can be finished with wet sanding and buffing.
|