In this section I will show you how to make the electrical connections for the switch and electrical power connection, and how to fix them in place, so that their positions and alignments are not lost during other processing.   In theory, you do not need a switch on the lamp, but then you must turn the lamp on and off by removing the power cord.  Read the instructions completely before starting your project.

With my first "Alien eye" lamps, I did not prefix the positions of the switch, power connector or the mounting base.   This led to problems while forming the Fimo outer shell, in that all the alignments and positions of these components constantly shifted.   My experience shows that two baking cycles, or the use of two part epoxy putty for fixing critical alignments reduces the frustration while finishing the outer surfaces.   The first bake will be used to fix the critical positions and alignments and the second bake will be to harden the outer Fimo shell of the Alien Eye.  After I used this process, it was no longer frustrating to make the outer shell and quality and surface finish of the Fimo shell were all much improved. 

For this operation you will need to cut three pieces of small diameter wire (24 gage) into 40 mm lengths. 
Two pieces will be stripped of insulation for 5-8 mm on one end and 2-3 mm on the other end. The longer stripped ends will be the ones later wrapped around the lamp base pins and then soldered.   The third piece of wire is to make the connection between the power connector and the switch.   This piece is to be stripped of insulation on both ends for just 2-3 mm. 

I highly recommend having something to hold the switch and the barrel connector during soldering so that both hands are free.   The center connection on the barrel connector is difficult enough to solder without melting the plastic, let along trying to hold it with the other hand.   My methods of holding the parts during soldering are shown in the instructions below. 

When fixing the components with Fimo, or the two part epoxy putty, it is important to use just enough material to fix the position.    Place the material between the white plastic lamp base and the components and around the wires.   You do not need to apply material completely around the switch or the power connector.   These outer surfaces can be more easily covered during the application of the outer shell and will lead to better looking and more consistent results.

If you are using the two-part epoxy putty and the M4x12mm hexagon stand off, make sure the wires on the side of the stand off are routed away from the area when the hexagon stand off is mounted.

If you are particular about if the "on position" of the switch is up or down, you need to plan ahead and decide what side the switch should be on (right or left) and the orientation of the switch before soldering. 

So let's start!

Remove the 3 screws holding in the lens.

Remove the lens since the plastic lens can be damaged
by the heat in the baking cycles.  Put it in a safe place.

Put the screws in a safe place so they do not get lost.

Gather up the electrical parts.
Mini rocker switch, barrel connector, and three pieces
of small diameter wire.

Unscrew the plastic housing on the barrel connector.
Bend lead on barrel connector 90º.

Cut off part of the lead on the barrel connector
just before the hole stamped in the lead.

Mini rocker switch with tabs for holding in a housing.

Cut off the tabs on the side of the rocker switch

Find something with a hole in it to mount the barrel
connector for soldering.  A male plug works well to
hold the connector steady.  
Soldering is much easier if the connector is held stable.

Assemble barrel connector over the male plug.  

The male plug also acts as heat sink for soldering. 

Tin the 90º lead on the barrel connector with solder

Solder the one piece of short stripped wire to the bent
end of the barrel connector. 
This wire will be later soldered to the switch.

Bend the short stripped end 90º from one
of the remaining two pieces of wire that have
the long stripped ends..

Solder the wire so that it points 180º to the
other wire (red in picture).   The long stripped end of the
wire is on the left side.

Place the switch in some molding clay or silly putty.
This will make soldering much easier. 
The switch should  be oriented so the  "0" on the
switch is underneath to the right.

Note: Here is where you can decide the orientation of the "On/Off" position (top/down) of the switch relative to the position of the connector and the switch.    You have the four options for the configuration of the switch/connector and the On/Off position.

1.  Connector to the right, "On" position on top
2.  Connector to the right, "Off" position on top
3.  Switch to the right, "On" position on top
4.  Switch to the right, "Off" position on top

If you follow the method here you will have either a #1 or #4.    To make a #2 or #3 solder the short stripped wire end to the lead underneath the "0" or off position of the switch instead of solding a long stripped lead.

Tin the terminal on the right hand side.
Do not apply too much heat for too long to the
switch as it can be easily melted.

Solder the short stripped end of to the outside of
the right  terminal switch.  (Makes configuration #1 or #4)

Rotate the switch 180º in the molding clay.

Tin the other terminal.

Assemble the 3/32" heat shrink tubing
as shown in the picture. 
You need two pieces on the barrel connector.  (see picture)

Bend the short stripped wire on the barrel connector
as shown in the picture.

Solder the short stripped end to the outside of the
remaining free terminal on the rocker switch.

Make a small axial cut half way into a 5-7 mm piece
of 3/32" heat shrink tubing.

Assemble the cut of the heat shrink tubing over the
round terminal on the end of the barrel connector.

Shrink the heat shrink tubing on each of the
4 connections.

(Option) Cut the lamp leads shorter

After cutting. 

Wrap the long stripped end of the switch
around one pin of the lamp connector. 
Tweezers can help with the wire between the two pins.

Solder the wire to the lamp pin as shown in the picture.

Position the barrel connector and the
switch as shown in the picture.

Wrap the long stripped end around the other lamp pin.

Solder the lead from the barrel connector to the lamp pin

Test the electrical connections

Center and fix the switch and the barrel connector
with glass fiber reinforced Fimo or two part
epoxy putty (Milliput).
Place putty/fimo in and around the wires.  
Do not use too much material around the outside of the
switch and connector as it will interfere
with the final forming.  

Set the bottom of the switch on the lamp base.  
Position the height of the barrel connector shoulder
so that it is even with the height of the rocker switch shoulder.

The fixing material here is a two-part epoxy putty
"toolcraft" from Conrad.  It hardens by itself in about 5 minutes.
Milliput can also be used but it takes longer to set up.
Note how the outside of switch and the power
connector are free from material.

Switch and connector shown here being held with Fimo
The Fimo must be baked at 100-110º for 30 minutes. 
Note how the outside of switch and the power
connector are free from material.

Retest the electrical connections. 
Make sure the component positions do not shift.

Connection Diagram

Fimo

Milliput

Hybrid